Going to Kep, Cambodia

Change of Location

This tuk tuk has no more room.
This tuk tuk has no more room.

Friday morning and we were up early finishing our packing. We will not return to Green Pasture Guest house so have to take everything with us. It takes two tuk tuks completely filled just to carry our luggage the short distance to the bus. We walk.

The bus ride is normally about three hours – ours was four due to mis-communication. It was good that much of the time on the bus was good fellowship time for the dorm students and our team. I had heard that there was to be a “talent show” but was envisioning something different from what took place. Each person was called up to the front of the bus to exhibit a talent of some sort – everything from doing a monkey impersonation to braiding hair. There was a lot of laughing and silliness. There was also a lot of singing with guitars and I am starting to identify the really good voices among them. It is very evident that the students just enjoy being together under any conditions. I had a good conversation with my seat mate, Theis, about life in Cambodia.

After a looooong lunch (what small restaurant is ready to serve 41 people, spur of the moment?) we pulled into Rock Royal Hotel at the seaside resort town of Kep (www.rockroyalresort.com). Not long after checking in, rain clouds started rolling in with a brisk wind. We watched a remarkable storm from our second story window as the power outages began. The hotel lost power for about half an hour, during which several people were trapped in the small elevator. The AC was also out during that time. The rooms here are without power unless the room key is in a power slot by the door, so they are warm any time you enter them and are slow to cool down.

The view out our second story window...
The view out our second story window…

Another interesting show out our window was the rounding up of cattle. Four skinny cows were grazing in the yard outside the hotel and after the rain a man came to take them elsewhere. Some of them were tethered and kicked up their heels a bit when untied but all eventually followed the man out a gate and up the street, seemingly of their own accord.

The evening meeting was held with some singing and a message by one of our team members. Then we all packed up and went by bus to another part of Kep where the Kimmley seafood restaurant was serving dinner. They have an open front to the ocean and the noise of the waves on top of the chatter of many voices gave me a very real listening challenge. To isolate an individual voice was hard. Things quieted down a good bit when everyone started eating. It was still raining and blowing outside so we had another power outage. Surprisingly the restaurant had a generator. I would hope they had a way to keep all their seafood cold… I ate conservatively this time, a mango shake and rice with vegetables. Julie had fried fish in coconut milk which came looking much different from what she expected and a bit scary.

At Kimmly Seafood Restaurant in Kep, angry sea, beautiful night sky.
At Kimmly Seafood Restaurant in Kep
Angry sea, beautiful night sky
Angry sea, beautiful night sky

I did have one food adventure today though. I have heard about the fruit durian, which many Cambodians like, and most foreigners say is unbelievably stinky. It is prohibited on buses and in some businesses because of the smell. I have often wondered about it, being unable to detect the bad smell myself. The students bought one at our lunch stop and offered me a taste. It was good in a way unlike any other fruit I have had. It didn’t smell particularly bad at all. I think it’s reputation needs to change.  Come to find out there is a whole blog about Durian, the King of Fruits with everything you might want to know about it, including What Americans Say about Durian . Hilarious.

Julie and I had a restful night, lulled to sleep by the rain, and the wind which makes a constant, rushing whistle on our corner of the building, much like a Wisconsn winter blizzard.

Sunday: Phnom Penh

Church meeting at Asia Hope in Prek Eng.
Church meeting at Asia Hope in Prek Eng.

In the U.S. the streets are pretty quiet early on Sunday mornings.  In Cambodia there is very little difference between Sunday and any other day.  As we rode in tuk tuks back to the Asia Hope compound for church the difference I noticed was not in the traffic but in the temperature – it finally rained last night and cooled things down a little, settled a bit of the dust.  This is normally their rainy season but this year there has been no rain for several months.  One house parent told us that his wife and the kids carry water out to their garden every day in the evening to keep the plants alive.  And I heard the rain last night as I was trying to sleep my headache away – there is a metal roof right outside my window and the rain was heavy and noisy, but welcome.  

We had a good time at church with the children from all five homes.  As usual we were the guests of honor with children holding our hands and sitting with us, fanning us, and being attentive in general.  We spent an hour and a half after church visiting one family house, went to lunch at the White Elephant (beautiful place!), and then returned to spend time with the other house. (Our team is sponsoring or closely connected to two of the five homes.) We then returned to our guest house and are having some “down time” until this evening when I get to go to the airport to welcome my daughter!

On our tuk tuk rides, which take nearly an hour when we go to Asia Hope) we talk about many things we see along the way.  There are Buddhist temples.  There are Muslim mosques and neighborhoods where women wear Muslim dress.  There is much construction.  There are many strange sights.  Today the talk was about parasites and worms of various kinds.  Yesterday at the medical clinic we had medicine for parasites that was given to several patients.  The physician’s assistant on our team suggested that we might want to take some of this medicine back home with us to treat ourselves after getting back.  I have not done that before but it sounded like a good idea after hearing some of the stories he told us.  And it is not at all hard to imagine getting parasites with the lack of sanitation that is evident everywhere.

Later: Julia arrived early at the airport and in no time at all we were heading back to the guest house. It was good for her first glimpse of Phnom Penh at night to be from a tuk tuk – all the sights and smells are very close and real. We settled down in our room to sleep but once again I had a hard time being tired. I kept thinking about my client Jack back in Florida and decided to check my phone for messages. From three different people I had messages that Jack had died in surgery of a heart attack. What a disturbing night it was from that point on – even though there was nothing I could do. I will miss him so much. But death is not a scary thing for me. I worry more for others who do not have hope as I do, that death is not the end. I know it was not the end for Jack, more a change of venue. On to Monday…

Julia, Lydia and McKenzie enroute in tuk tuk.
Julia, Lydia and McKenzie enroute in tuk tuk.

Saturday’s Story

Barely surviving Saturday

I used to think I was tough. Today, I made it through the day but am very aware that I would not last long in this climate, doing what people do who live here. We had our medical outreach clinic for four hours in the morning, a lunch break, and almost four hours more in the afternoon. It was inside out of the sun but very hot and of course, there was no AC to cool us or the patients. I’m most likely just dehydrated but it has given me a serious headache, and I can think of little else but getting rid of it.

However it was a successful outreach. Of the 130 people in the community who were invited, 136 patients came through. Some were staff at Asia’s Hope which swelled the number. All received medical attention. Many received eyeglasses. All heard the gospel of Christ presented to them and 78 responded. Their names and addresses were recorded for follow-up so they could be invited to church to learn more.

We went to one of the Asia’s Hope homes for lunch – it was on the same compound as the outreach. The house mothers had prepared a nice meal and we sat around the room and ate. One of the treats midway through was the prepared coconuts with a straw stuck in the middle. We were each offered one and since it was delicious and I was thirsty, I drank the whole thing. They hold more than you might think. After I drained it, houseparent An chopped it in half and I scooped out the soft meat inside which was also very good. I had never had a “green” coconut before. Some of the others were talking about having gotten sick eating (or overeating) on green coconuts but I’m not going to hear that. It probably saved my life today – and that’s the story I’m sticking to.

my  coconut milk cocktail...
my coconut milk cocktail…

Friday in Phnom Penh

Friday

My room has windows on two walls but in spite of that, no light comes in. The buildings next to our building are only three or four feet away and the small alleyway between them is only wide enough for a (small) person to pass through, and almost no light. There is constant building construction going on all around us and on every street. If a person has enough money, they can get permission to build almost anything they want to build and there is very little code enforcement. There is also very little skilled labor so it is a little scary to think of living in some of the bigger apartment buildings. All this to say that I have no sense of when night is over and it is time to get up.

Our expanded team had prayer together and breakfast before heading out for supplies for the day’s activities. I stayed back in the room to put together our game for the dorm students tonight. They are going to learn some team work skills. They have to study and describe my “creation” to others, who pass it on to others, who finally make the creation again from the description. The team coming closest to the model gets the prize. The Cambodian young people love to do things together and are enthusiastic about games. They are such fun to work with and watch.

The shopping was also done for the medical outreach which is tomorrow and we sorted and bagged items to give away. We have 130 tickets given out in the neighborhood – these people will be the patients. They each receive a bag with some basic health items, a visit with a medical professional to discuss their problems, have their vital signs recorded and their blood sugar checked and a vision test. We have used prescription eye glasses to give to those who need them. Some medications are given out and some referrals are made to local clinics. Our station will be at the Asia’s Hope compound which is in Prek Eng, a suburb of Phnom Penh.

Later: It was a blessing to be able to spend most of the day inside out of the heat, sorting medicines and resting and talking with other team members. Time kind of slipped past and suddenly we were in danger of being late for the evening meeting of the dorm students. They were already doing worship songs when we arrived and I didn’t have time to set up the games I brought. If there is one thing I have learned about these trips it is the need to be flexible, suddenly. Since the games started right after the songs I was making mental adjustments as we progressed. We took the simplest game first and even that took nearly 15 minutes to explain. Just dividing the crowd of 80 young people into teams was like trying to herd turtles. And forget any rules that might have been part of the game – once they started having fun and being competitive things were wild. The second game was more quiet and contemplative, as they sat in groups trying to copy a creation I had made out of “stuff” we got at the market. Over all, they had a lot of fun and so did I. We finished out the evening with a good message and food. Always food…

An active crowd of 80 young university students
An active crowd of 80 young university students
What is that thing? Laugh much...
What is that thing? Laugh much…

Tuesday Travels? Wednesday Travels? I’m confused…

As we three travelers finished our journey to Cambodia, it was hard to keep track of what day it was.  It was actually early on Thursday that I finished this, or so I’m told. You will probably also be confused by the time you finish reading.    

Our flight to Phnom Penh is only six hours long and I am on it now, as I write. FT is 9 am Wednesday but over here when we land it will be exactly 12 hours later. I can tell my body thinks I should be awake, although I am confused enough that I will be able to go to sleep when we get to the guest house. It is always good to have that rest at the end of a long time of being in a non-restful position.

I have been studying the pictures of the children in PE 4 and PE 5, hoping to learn the boys names and review the girls. Even though I have seen them for three visits now it is still hard to remember the names that are very similar, especially when I have not done anything specific with them. I would like to call them all by name but it is unlikely…

We are in a fairly large plane and it is full. We have been given the only meal we will have on this leg of the journey. We were given papers to fill out to apply for our visas. The price of a visa has gone up from $25 to $37 and we will get ours at the airport when we land. So far the trip has been uneventful but I am almost afraid to say that.

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FT 12:45 pm Wednesday but in PP (Phnom Penh) it is 12:45 am on Thursday. At about 10:30 pm we had a rather rough landing and disembarked. Some of this detail is going to be boring to many but I’m hoping it will give daughter Julia an idea of where to go and what to do when she travels here alone on Saturday. I have never had to do it unaccompanied, thankfully. Everyone getting off the plane does pretty much the same thing so following the crowd is a good way to go. This airport is older, has a few holes in the walls, and a lot of strange additions to it – not at all like Korean airports. We are directed into a large room where lines are forming along the left wall. There is a counter with a lot of uniformed men, some women, behind it. They take our passports and $2 for a picture, then we stand in a group at the right of the long counter. Our passports are passed along the officials and end up at the last man who tries to pronounce our names in a way that we will recognize. Good luck there. He also holds it up so the picture can be seen. We pay $30 for the visa and get our passport handed to us again.

One more checkpoint as we move through the large room. There are several stations with an agent waiting to take another look at the passport, stamp it three or four times and give it back. We are now official tourists and the next stop is right in front of us – the baggage carousel. And by this time the bags are there and circling. Everything arrived undamaged and on time. There are carts to help us move it all. As we get near the door the waiting crowd spills through and starts the greeting and hugging. A lot of the kids have come, some of the dorm students, and a number of adults from Asia’s Hope. It is a royal welcome.

We are driven to the Green Pasture Inn, which is the guest house we have always stayed in, but now it has new management and some changes. Still it is familiar and feels like “home, sweet home” as Mike says. I have my double room, since Julie will be joining me in a few days. The “air con” gets turned on and, as usual, the password for the wifi doesn’t work. We’ll have to figure that one out in the morning. So for now, goodnight.

"home, sweet home" for the next two weeks
“home, sweet home” for the next two weeks

Tuesday Travels: #5

It’s Tuesday again.  I’m very glad that I worked on packing the bags I had been given last week.  I looked through all of the contents so I would know what I was carrying, added my own contributions and then stepped on the scale with them.  They all should be just under the 50 lb. limit. Thankfully they were.

I’m glad I got  this done because Saturday night I got a call from my hometown that my dad had died – a heart attack most likely. The rest of the night was spent making travel arrangements, not to Cambodia but to Hayward, Wisconsin.  It’s always a complicated procedure to get ticketed on a reasonable flight, at a reasonable price, at the last minute. Even more of a chore when I’m not thinking clearly.  There was another decision to be made every five minutes and they all seemed hard, even the little inconsequential ones.  I had to persist and get there as quickly as I could.  Around 1 am I finally found a way to get home by the next afternoon.

Travel next week will be on Sunday again – back to Bradenton, hopefully in time to wash clothes, pack again and travel to Jacksonville on Monday, to fly on Tuesday to Atlanta and then on to Cambodia.  I feel well traveled.  Maybe over traveled.  This is not the time for me to write about how I’m feeling here, getting ready for my dad’s memorial service.  I am thankful to be surrounded by friends and family,  by love and support.  I will only say that my dad, Owen Smith, will be missed a lot.  We weren’t really prepared to be without him but in some ways the timing was providential.  God knew.

Love you Dad.  It’s so evident now that the body is only a shell to hold the real person for a limited time.  We are really made and groomed for what lies ahead, after we leave this present reality.

with Dad and daughter Julia at her graduation from vet school
with Dad and daughter Julia at her graduation from vet school
Dad in his younger years... a handsome guy.
Dad in his younger years… a handsome guy.

Thank You for Teaching

This is Teacher Appreciation month – fitting, since they’re just finishing one more year of service to their students. This post was written for my brother’s business blog at appleawards.com but I’m posting it here as a thank you to my teacher friends Joy, Tera, and Norm who were mentioned in the post.  Also, thank you to Cheryl, whose students are her business and her life, a dedicated teacher who just happens to be celebrating a birthday today.  Happy Birthday Cheryl!

I have a dear friend who is a high school guidance counselor. She has had this job over the years through many changes of administration and policy. Each year she has a large number of students to meet and encourage. My first thought is that she is there to help them plan for the future – know their strengths, choose a career goal, choose their next educational endeavor. For some, this is what she does. For others she hopes first to keep them in high school long enough to graduate. Over the brief time she has them she must develop a relationship and ask for their trust. She holds her breath as she watches them navigate their own personal mine fields – homelessness, abuse and neglect, drugs, alcohol, loneliness, ridicule, promiscuity, anxiety. Often policy changes leave her with more than she can possibly do and fewer tools with which to do anything. Their situations are on her mind far past the dismissal of the last class.

I know a woman who was an elementary school teacher in a small private school. Her example was that of great caring for her students, their families and their greatest good. She dealt with the problems of modern families, showing them compassion, integrity and principles of truthfulness with love. When an administrator was needed for the school, she accepted the position and added that to her teaching role. She left only to become caretaker for her elderly mother. When that was no longer necessary she could have retired, but returned to teaching.

I know a man who teaches music in a high school for gifted students. He holds a second job in music ministry for his church but that doesn’t keep him from spending time with his students and knowing them personally. He is fun, energetic, smart and kind and for all of that his students love him. He pushes them to excellence in their band competitions, he spends hours on their special projects and teaches them to view music with high regard. He also takes their problems home at the end of the day. His church family often hears requests to pray for his students.

It is the end of the school year. May is teacher appreciation month. Who do you know who needs to be affirmed, encouraged or thanked for being who they are and doing what they do in the field of education?

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G for Going North

This morning once again I’m leaving the “family story” theme behind and writing about present experience. I am going north. The destination is Minneapolis for the Association of Writing Professionals conference. My daughter attended the conference last year when it was in her home town of Seattle and it was an outing she wanted to repeat. So for her April birthday she gave herself a present – the trip to Minneapolis – and for my birthday (which is today) she invited me along. I am masquerading as a real writer for three days and hoping to pick up some interesting experiences, and knowledge.

In the next three or four posts I hope to give a picture of what the conference is like. To be part of it I’ve had to join the Association, of course, and purchase my registration. I have already spent several hours looking at the hundreds of things on the schedule trying to decide what to take in. The online portal allows me to choose and develop my individual schedule which I can access at any time through an app on my phone. The app also links me to others at the conference and gives me a map of the conference center. I say that I’ve spent several hours wading through the many offerings but I’ve only gotten through day 2 of the conference. There are presentations on all kinds of writing and publishing, workshops, author signings and a huge book fair.

As I was getting ready for this trip, I asked my daughter “what do writers wear at these things?” Probably it was a stupid question, but honestly if I’m going to buy new clothes that don’t have stains on them I might as well fit in so I don’t feel conspicuous. As I suspected, writers don’t have a uniform. The most important thing is to have comfortable shoes and a sweater to keep warm. It is still snowing in this part of the country.

But the going part is also interesting. My ticket choices did not include a non-stop so I am airport hopping in what was supposed to be a three city trip. Unfortunatley our plans are “up in the air” so to speak. What do you do when the destination airport closes because of a storm? Evidently you circle until you run out of fuel. Actually, the pilot was kind enough to inform us that if we get close to running out of fuel we will land at another city that is kind of on the way (but not really). I don’t think I’ve ever been on a four city trip, and I’m desperately hoping I’m not on one now. It would mean missing my flight to the final destination for sure.

Maybe this is the start of my first novel!  Will she make it safely to the conference or will the plane mysteriously disappear over the cornfields of the midwest! The turbulence is getting rather dramatic. I’m just sayin’, stay tuned …

A to Z Family Stories: A for the Apple Tree

This is a collection of family stories that are told repeatedly anytime the Smith clan congregates during a vacation or a holiday.  I’m sure some of them are told more from my perspective than others but I welcome added insight from those involved. These stories are part of who we are and I want them recorded. Not all of them are pretty, but that is ok. 

 

 

 

It was a friendly tree for small people, having branches down low and plenty of climbing space. When the leaves were on you could hide in it, and that happened from time to time. We had to cross a small distance of back yard, squeeze between the barbed wire and the lower part of a fence, run up hill through a narrow field and at the edge of a woodlot of hardwoods was the smaller, evenly proportioned crab apple. All of us learned to get there quickly. It was far enough away to be secretive yet close enough that everything on our small farm was within sight and hearing.

There would be a time each spring when we would suddenly notice the tree getting white with blossoms. It was an obligatory ritual to get a bouquet of branches for the house and we would always go up to the tree with excitement and then remember the bees. Lots of bees, and there would always be some on the branches that we wanted to pick. But the smell of apple blossoms was strong and wonderful, filling the air. We would be brave, grab our prize branches and run back to the house, imaginary insects chasing us down the hill.

The time would come when the ground beneath the tree would be white because the petals had fallen off, like snow floating on the breeze. Instead of being white the tree would get faintly green, then darker as the leaves grew bigger. The little green apples would appear where the blossoms had been. It was safe for climbing then. The bark was often marked with woodpecker holes – I don’t know why I remember that so clearly. You could read a book in that tree. Or play all kinds of pretend situations. I had dolls, but more often it was kittens that got dressed up as babies and put to sleep in a box under the tree while I went to forage for food in the woods. The tall grass of the field would be the walls of our house and the tree was the second story.

The apples didn’t need long to ripen. I think sometime in July we would see them start to redden. They were too sour for anything except apple butter that had sugar to sweeten it up. But it was these little apples that made their way into the story that my family tells when we are together thinking about our childhood. My four younger brothers were a tribe of wild ones and I was occasionally put “in charge” or so I thought, when our parents were away briefly. One time we had an inept babysitter who was doing very little to shepherd the flock and a disagreement arose. It quickly escalated and the rebellious leader of the wild ones, who knew better than to throw rocks, decided crab apples would be suitable. The hard little bullets were easy to throw. I ran to the house and locked them out which made them even more angry.

I got bigger. The tree seemed smaller. I don’t remember when it started dying and losing branches. Years later I visited the farm and the tree wasn’t there any more. I was sad, but it seems that is the way with all things that live, and then they don’t. Except in our memories, for a while.

A Mystery

Earlier today I posted about my love of marbles.  Could it possibly be a coincidence that someone put a bag of 50 cat’s eye marbles in the husband’s pickup truck bed, at his work? He said he did not know anything about my post, and he was very surprised to find them there since nothing like that has ever happened before. I am having a fun day, and I now have twice as many marbles. Hahaha… just sayin’.