Going to Kep, Cambodia

Change of Location

This tuk tuk has no more room.
This tuk tuk has no more room.

Friday morning and we were up early finishing our packing. We will not return to Green Pasture Guest house so have to take everything with us. It takes two tuk tuks completely filled just to carry our luggage the short distance to the bus. We walk.

The bus ride is normally about three hours – ours was four due to mis-communication. It was good that much of the time on the bus was good fellowship time for the dorm students and our team. I had heard that there was to be a “talent show” but was envisioning something different from what took place. Each person was called up to the front of the bus to exhibit a talent of some sort – everything from doing a monkey impersonation to braiding hair. There was a lot of laughing and silliness. There was also a lot of singing with guitars and I am starting to identify the really good voices among them. It is very evident that the students just enjoy being together under any conditions. I had a good conversation with my seat mate, Theis, about life in Cambodia.

After a looooong lunch (what small restaurant is ready to serve 41 people, spur of the moment?) we pulled into Rock Royal Hotel at the seaside resort town of Kep (www.rockroyalresort.com). Not long after checking in, rain clouds started rolling in with a brisk wind. We watched a remarkable storm from our second story window as the power outages began. The hotel lost power for about half an hour, during which several people were trapped in the small elevator. The AC was also out during that time. The rooms here are without power unless the room key is in a power slot by the door, so they are warm any time you enter them and are slow to cool down.

The view out our second story window...
The view out our second story window…

Another interesting show out our window was the rounding up of cattle. Four skinny cows were grazing in the yard outside the hotel and after the rain a man came to take them elsewhere. Some of them were tethered and kicked up their heels a bit when untied but all eventually followed the man out a gate and up the street, seemingly of their own accord.

The evening meeting was held with some singing and a message by one of our team members. Then we all packed up and went by bus to another part of Kep where the Kimmley seafood restaurant was serving dinner. They have an open front to the ocean and the noise of the waves on top of the chatter of many voices gave me a very real listening challenge. To isolate an individual voice was hard. Things quieted down a good bit when everyone started eating. It was still raining and blowing outside so we had another power outage. Surprisingly the restaurant had a generator. I would hope they had a way to keep all their seafood cold… I ate conservatively this time, a mango shake and rice with vegetables. Julie had fried fish in coconut milk which came looking much different from what she expected and a bit scary.

At Kimmly Seafood Restaurant in Kep, angry sea, beautiful night sky.
At Kimmly Seafood Restaurant in Kep
Angry sea, beautiful night sky
Angry sea, beautiful night sky

I did have one food adventure today though. I have heard about the fruit durian, which many Cambodians like, and most foreigners say is unbelievably stinky. It is prohibited on buses and in some businesses because of the smell. I have often wondered about it, being unable to detect the bad smell myself. The students bought one at our lunch stop and offered me a taste. It was good in a way unlike any other fruit I have had. It didn’t smell particularly bad at all. I think it’s reputation needs to change.  Come to find out there is a whole blog about Durian, the King of Fruits with everything you might want to know about it, including What Americans Say about Durian . Hilarious.

Julie and I had a restful night, lulled to sleep by the rain, and the wind which makes a constant, rushing whistle on our corner of the building, much like a Wisconsn winter blizzard.

Last Day in Phnom Penh

I don’t know what day it is anymore. Maybe Thursday. Today we went early to help with an outreach in one of the slum areas, of which there are many. The university dorm students are in charge of this endeavor and they do a great job. They are friends with a few older children who are given invitations to pass out in their neighborhoods. All the children arrived this morning at what is called a soccer field, but is really a rare empty lot with indoor/outdoor carpeting on a cement slab.

Slum outreach: Kids watch a skit of the story of David and Goliath (Goliath has just been slain and is lying on the ground.)
Slum outreach: Kids watch a skit of the story of David and Goliath (Goliath has just been slain and is lying on the ground.)
Attempting to bring some order by lining up...
Attempting to bring some order by lining up…

There were over 200 children, mostly small, perhaps 10 and younger, in all stages of dress/undress running around when we arrived. I smiled and bent down to greet a few of them and that was all it took to set off a stampede. I had children practically jumping into my arms, climbing up my legs and holding onto my hands. To say they are friendly is an understatement. I could not imagine anyone being able to bring order to this chaos. There were a few mothers present but most children were unaccompanied.

The students lined up along one side of the lot and one with a bull horn began talking to the children, telling them to line up. They were soon in about ten lines listening intently. The singing began and they responded loudly and enthusiastically. This was not the first time for many of them so they knew the songs and the routine. They listened to a skit about David and Goliath which was pretty hysterical – the college students have a lot of fun doing this. Our team supervised a game called “four corners” which turned into a free for all. None of the children understood the rules but they loved running back and forth from one corner to the other. We couldn’t get any of them to sit down and quit when they were out.

We finished by giving each child a packet of school supplies and a small loaf of bread. This whole experience was such a great example of community, giving time and attention to people who don’t often get it. It was Cambodians having a heart for Cambodians and inspiring it was to see.

All the neighborhood children holding up their gifts of school supplies
All the neighborhood children holding up their gifts of school supplies

After lunch at Daughters of Cambodia Sugar and Spice, we went to Asia Hope for our last visit to the our sponsored homes there. This was the day I gave all the girls the jewelry craft that was donated by one of my friends. They loved doing this and soon were wearing the rings, pins, earrings, bracelets and necklaces they had made. They are very interested in looking like young ladies and having special things to wear. The ninja ball craft was repeated for PE5 home with possibly even more mess than we created at PE4 home. Flour and balloons everywhere, everywhere…

Good thing it was just flour...
Good thing it was just flour…
All the girls and ladies have jewelry to wear after this craft session.
All the girls and ladies have jewelry to wear after this craft session.
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The kids made sidewalk art with chalk at their home

We are again thankful to be safely at the guest house after a productive and fun day. Long, our trusty tuk tuk driver, made a BIG mistake and took the bumpy way home through miles and miles of road construction and we will probably not stop teasing him about it for a long time. One more thing to remember about our days in Phnom Penh. Tomorrow we leave for Kep, the resort where we will have retreats for the dorm students first, then the Asia Hope children.

Continuing in Cambodia

sign in Digby's cafe and a good saying to remember
sign in Digby’s cafe and a good saying to remember

For several days the internet has not been easily available so I have not posted.  Getting back on track now in a beautiful place, with wifi specifically for our room.  Looking forward to posting about the last days of our trip.

Two Days with Children (Tuesday and Wednesday) Days 7 and 8

These two days are very similar on the schedule so I am writing about them together. During our free time in the morning yesterday, Julia and I went to the Russian market to do personal shopping. The girl is a shopper, for sure. She got nearly everything she had in mind as gifts for people back home and found some dishes to complement the ones I brought her last year. She is a good one to barter with the merchants, which is expected practice. They always start high, she always starts low and they meet in the middle. I wanted her to see the Russian market because it is unique in many ways, one of which is the high temperatures inside during the heat of the day. It is like a sauna.

Every year I have come there is a merchant that we visit. She is a lady who has been burned and scarred on her face but in spite of that she is cheerful and an active seller. She supports herself and her son from sales at her booth. She knows Mike and Trish and recognizes most of us who have come with her which surprises me. I met her in one of the aisles and she gave me a big welcome hug. Julie and I shopped at her booth – it is the only one where we don’t barter. She is a Christian and has some amazing books about those who have survived Khmer Rouge and come to faith through some pretty nasty trials. As we left with our bags full she went to a cooler behind her wall and got us bottles of chilled water to take with us.

The street front wall of greenery at Digby's.  Awesome place. Eat there.
The street front wall of greenery at Digby’s. Awesome place. Eat there.

The team ate lunch at Digby’s, a restaurant started by a Cambodian who immigrated to the U.S. where he became a successful businessman. He then returned to Cambodia to pour back into his people the blessings he had experienced. His restaurant rivals upscale organic/fresh market establishments in the U.S.  The sign that starts this post was one I saw in the store.

We went on to the Central Market to meet PE4 children and staff. This outing has become a tradition. Each member of the house is given $10 for an item of their choice. The children have become good at deciding what they want and finding it. They have learned to barter and buy so it is a good experience for them. This year’s purchases included clothing, a purse, a suitcase, and shoes. You can get a lot for $10 at Central Market. We always end the trip with a group photo.

With PE4 after a successful shopping trip
With PE4 after a successful shopping trip

It is always dinner time when we finish so on to Khmer Surin. After years of going for pizza, this restaurant is a new experience for some. It is a sit down, very nice restaurant and guest house where a different set of skills can be practiced. One skill that still needs to be sharpened is the act of passing food to others so that all get enough to eat. We had a bit of trouble with that at one table but will watch today and make sure the boys with big appetites don’t get it all.

Eating at a "fancy" restaurant with full compliment of tableware and napkins!
Eating at a “fancy” restaurant with full compliment of tableware and napkins!

Our final stop this year, instead of going to the riverfront park, is an amusement park called Dreamland. There are lots of carnival rides there, an inline skate park, a maze, and a lot of interesting places to hang out. It was in the budget for each child to have one ride and it turned out to be the bumper cars where everyone had a blast learning to drive poorly.

Bumper car fun at Dreamland
Bumper car fun at Dreamland

On the second day through the Central Market on Thursday it started to rain. This is my first experience with Cambodia in the rainy season and it was a wet one. Much of the market is under tarps and there are many leaks. It seems to be the rule, if we are not wet with sweat, we are wet with rain. The ride from the market to the restaurant was filled with drama as we jumped large puddles to reach our tuk tuk. The driver in his raincoat was busy lowering rain flaps and helping us in. We were thankful for the small degree of shelter we had because most everyone we saw on motos was soaked. The evening at Dreamland was also very wet and by then the puddles were lakes. There was a bit of excitement at the bumper car ride when a surge of electricity was felt by several of the kids holding hands, followed by a power outage in the whole park. The second night we were also entertained by Samnang, one of the PE5 kids who had bought a Batman costume at the market with his $10 (???). He raced around supposedly saving the day, until he lost his “hat” in the bumper car ride. Jim, one of our team members, and recently awarded hero status, went back with him and found it wrapped around the wheel of the bumper car.

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Behind us, one of the lucky moto riders who remembered his rain poncho…

Dreamland is a huge park and it has been nearly empty both nights, except for our group and numerous employees who sit around with little to do. One good thing about going there is that it has a natural ending point, after we have walked past all the features and had bumper car rides it is time to go home, and still early enough that we can get a good rest back at the guest house. Having this much fun is exhausting…

Our very own "Batman" posing with a superhero friend.
Our very own “Batman” posing with a superhero friend.

Tuesday Travels #7 Getting Around in Phnom Penh

I cannot say enough about the traffic in this city. It is a constant source of wonder (and fear) and is almost like entertainment when we are out and about the city.

The first, most obvious thing that I notice is that more people travel by moto than anything else. They are everywhere. Since they are little (compared to a car) you find them by the dozen parked on sidewalks, driven inside buildings, pulling huge loads of goods, and carrying anywhere from one to five or more people. In the stream of traffic I see them winding their way around cars, totally disregarding any semblance of being in a lane. They act more like extensions of the rider’s body, making small twists and turns, squeezing into spaces you would not think possible.

Our two tuk tuks in the stream of traffic
Our two tuk tuks in the stream of traffic

The second and truly amazing thing is that at most intersections there are no traffic lights. None. Vehicles of all sizes and shapes simply edge out to make their turns and move across multiple lines of cross traffic. Have you ever seen the Shriners motorcycle riders in a parade? Those X formations where they weave one line of riders through another line? That’s a little bit like how traffic works at intersections only on a much larger scale. Most of the time the speed is quite slow, allowing for things to go wrong without being disastrous. That is not to say that there are never accidents.

Since many moto riders don’t wear helmets they are at risk. They are also the under dog when it comes to size. Everything except a pedestrian is bigger, heavier and more powerful than they are. Trucks are particularly dangerous and most of them are the large, road construction, type of vehicle. I rarely see a pick up truck. I think that’s because the average farmer in Cambodia is not a wealthy person, not even close.

Cars and vans are the next most common things on the roads. Every other vehicle is a Lexus or similar brand of car, and most of them have government connection. The late model SUV is definitely an “in” thing. Vans are used mostly as practical choices for carrying lots of people. And then there are large buses that can be chartered at a very reasonable cost.

5 adults and 20 + children manage to travel happily in this van (that is not to say they couldn't use a little more room...)
5 adults and 20 + children manage to travel happily in this van (that is not to say they couldn’t use a little more room…)

Perhaps some of you have no idea what a tuk tuk is – I didn’t before I came to Cambodia the first time. They are probably as equally prevalent as cars on the streets of Phnom Penh, and more prevalent the farther you get from the city. They are little motorcycle pulled carts that seat four to six people and serve as the common taxi. Outside hotels and shopping places tuk tuks are lined up along the streets waiting to be hired. Their drivers have territories and defend them. They are quite efficient at getting people around in the city at a reasonable cost. The wagons are decked out in various ways, some show a lot of imagination. They often have advertisements posted on the back.

And that is how we traveled today, Tuesday, in a tuk tuk.

Tuk tuk or what we would call a taxi, waiting outside our guest house for hire
Tuk tuk or what we would call a taxi, waiting outside our guest house for hire

Monday with the Children

A picture is worth a thousand words (and a lot easier to post).

We did a messy craft project, making ninja balls, with flour and balloons.  Kids love messy things.
We did a messy craft project, making ninja balls, with flour and balloons. Kids love messy things.
Kids love bright colors and playing with balloons too.
Kids love bright colors and playing with balloons too.
Activities take place outside on platform in the courtyard
Activities take place outside on platform in the courtyard
Looking at pictures on phones, having discussion around the table...
Looking at pictures on phones, having discussion around the table…
Posing for photo moments.  My phone gets borrowed and I find all kinds of interesting pics on it when it returns.
Posing for photo moments. My phone gets borrowed and I find all kinds of interesting pics on it when it returns.
Rousing card game of
Rousing card game of “Blitz”
And a festive dinner prepared by house "moms" and older girls.
And a festive dinner prepared by house “moms” and older girls.
A friendly fried rice.
A friendly fried rice.

Sunday: Phnom Penh

Church meeting at Asia Hope in Prek Eng.
Church meeting at Asia Hope in Prek Eng.

In the U.S. the streets are pretty quiet early on Sunday mornings.  In Cambodia there is very little difference between Sunday and any other day.  As we rode in tuk tuks back to the Asia Hope compound for church the difference I noticed was not in the traffic but in the temperature – it finally rained last night and cooled things down a little, settled a bit of the dust.  This is normally their rainy season but this year there has been no rain for several months.  One house parent told us that his wife and the kids carry water out to their garden every day in the evening to keep the plants alive.  And I heard the rain last night as I was trying to sleep my headache away – there is a metal roof right outside my window and the rain was heavy and noisy, but welcome.  

We had a good time at church with the children from all five homes.  As usual we were the guests of honor with children holding our hands and sitting with us, fanning us, and being attentive in general.  We spent an hour and a half after church visiting one family house, went to lunch at the White Elephant (beautiful place!), and then returned to spend time with the other house. (Our team is sponsoring or closely connected to two of the five homes.) We then returned to our guest house and are having some “down time” until this evening when I get to go to the airport to welcome my daughter!

On our tuk tuk rides, which take nearly an hour when we go to Asia Hope) we talk about many things we see along the way.  There are Buddhist temples.  There are Muslim mosques and neighborhoods where women wear Muslim dress.  There is much construction.  There are many strange sights.  Today the talk was about parasites and worms of various kinds.  Yesterday at the medical clinic we had medicine for parasites that was given to several patients.  The physician’s assistant on our team suggested that we might want to take some of this medicine back home with us to treat ourselves after getting back.  I have not done that before but it sounded like a good idea after hearing some of the stories he told us.  And it is not at all hard to imagine getting parasites with the lack of sanitation that is evident everywhere.

Later: Julia arrived early at the airport and in no time at all we were heading back to the guest house. It was good for her first glimpse of Phnom Penh at night to be from a tuk tuk – all the sights and smells are very close and real. We settled down in our room to sleep but once again I had a hard time being tired. I kept thinking about my client Jack back in Florida and decided to check my phone for messages. From three different people I had messages that Jack had died in surgery of a heart attack. What a disturbing night it was from that point on – even though there was nothing I could do. I will miss him so much. But death is not a scary thing for me. I worry more for others who do not have hope as I do, that death is not the end. I know it was not the end for Jack, more a change of venue. On to Monday…

Julia, Lydia and McKenzie enroute in tuk tuk.
Julia, Lydia and McKenzie enroute in tuk tuk.

Saturday’s Story

Barely surviving Saturday

I used to think I was tough. Today, I made it through the day but am very aware that I would not last long in this climate, doing what people do who live here. We had our medical outreach clinic for four hours in the morning, a lunch break, and almost four hours more in the afternoon. It was inside out of the sun but very hot and of course, there was no AC to cool us or the patients. I’m most likely just dehydrated but it has given me a serious headache, and I can think of little else but getting rid of it.

However it was a successful outreach. Of the 130 people in the community who were invited, 136 patients came through. Some were staff at Asia’s Hope which swelled the number. All received medical attention. Many received eyeglasses. All heard the gospel of Christ presented to them and 78 responded. Their names and addresses were recorded for follow-up so they could be invited to church to learn more.

We went to one of the Asia’s Hope homes for lunch – it was on the same compound as the outreach. The house mothers had prepared a nice meal and we sat around the room and ate. One of the treats midway through was the prepared coconuts with a straw stuck in the middle. We were each offered one and since it was delicious and I was thirsty, I drank the whole thing. They hold more than you might think. After I drained it, houseparent An chopped it in half and I scooped out the soft meat inside which was also very good. I had never had a “green” coconut before. Some of the others were talking about having gotten sick eating (or overeating) on green coconuts but I’m not going to hear that. It probably saved my life today – and that’s the story I’m sticking to.

my  coconut milk cocktail...
my coconut milk cocktail…

Friday in Phnom Penh

Friday

My room has windows on two walls but in spite of that, no light comes in. The buildings next to our building are only three or four feet away and the small alleyway between them is only wide enough for a (small) person to pass through, and almost no light. There is constant building construction going on all around us and on every street. If a person has enough money, they can get permission to build almost anything they want to build and there is very little code enforcement. There is also very little skilled labor so it is a little scary to think of living in some of the bigger apartment buildings. All this to say that I have no sense of when night is over and it is time to get up.

Our expanded team had prayer together and breakfast before heading out for supplies for the day’s activities. I stayed back in the room to put together our game for the dorm students tonight. They are going to learn some team work skills. They have to study and describe my “creation” to others, who pass it on to others, who finally make the creation again from the description. The team coming closest to the model gets the prize. The Cambodian young people love to do things together and are enthusiastic about games. They are such fun to work with and watch.

The shopping was also done for the medical outreach which is tomorrow and we sorted and bagged items to give away. We have 130 tickets given out in the neighborhood – these people will be the patients. They each receive a bag with some basic health items, a visit with a medical professional to discuss their problems, have their vital signs recorded and their blood sugar checked and a vision test. We have used prescription eye glasses to give to those who need them. Some medications are given out and some referrals are made to local clinics. Our station will be at the Asia’s Hope compound which is in Prek Eng, a suburb of Phnom Penh.

Later: It was a blessing to be able to spend most of the day inside out of the heat, sorting medicines and resting and talking with other team members. Time kind of slipped past and suddenly we were in danger of being late for the evening meeting of the dorm students. They were already doing worship songs when we arrived and I didn’t have time to set up the games I brought. If there is one thing I have learned about these trips it is the need to be flexible, suddenly. Since the games started right after the songs I was making mental adjustments as we progressed. We took the simplest game first and even that took nearly 15 minutes to explain. Just dividing the crowd of 80 young people into teams was like trying to herd turtles. And forget any rules that might have been part of the game – once they started having fun and being competitive things were wild. The second game was more quiet and contemplative, as they sat in groups trying to copy a creation I had made out of “stuff” we got at the market. Over all, they had a lot of fun and so did I. We finished out the evening with a good message and food. Always food…

An active crowd of 80 young university students
An active crowd of 80 young university students
What is that thing? Laugh much...
What is that thing? Laugh much…

Thursday in Phnom Penh

I slept pretty well. I was awakened early by some soft noises, like a door opening, and then my light went on briefly and off again. I still haven’t figured out what happened. There are three rooms in our unit which come off a larger common room where the front door is. On my other visits all rooms in our unit have been occupied by our team so we didn’t lock the inside doors. I think I will do that from now on.

Another surprise was the Inn’s new restaurant where breakfast is served. It is across the street. The new manager, Vendent, has expanded the business into an additional building. The outdoor courtyard is where we eat. There are only three tables and two of them fill up with young university students from the U.S. who are here doing medical missions in outlying provinces. They are all from the same church in Fayetteville. AR. My breakfast comes out in 30 seconds, literally. I think they cook ahead expecting a rush. I’m hungry and it looks good.

I go back later with Trish and Mike and watch them eat. We plan our day and go back to our rooms to do some research on games for our Friday night time with the university students in the dorms. Our time has been split between the orphanage children and the dorm students these last two years and it is interesting to see how the Asia’s Hope children transition to being university students. Some of them have taken leadership roles at the dorm.

Later: It is now evening. I am very tired but have felt pretty good all day. After breakfast today Trish and I brainstormed for games that the college students could play tomorrow night at a gathering. We have two, both of which will be challenging to explain but a lot of fun if we do them right.

We went to the Russian market to get materials for the games. The market is within walking distance of our guest house. This particular market is large, unbelievably crowded and claustrophobic even in cooler weather, but it is sweltering heat now so everything is magnified. In spite of Trish and I being thoroughly wet and sweating, the Cambodian women can be seen wearing sweaters and long sleeved blouses as they sit and cook on their charcoal burners, or their mile high stacks of garments for sale. There are no breezes, no fans, no air. It is quite an experience. But there is so much to see that I love to go anyway and can’t wait to show it to Julie.

Russian market, where you can find almost anything if you can stand to look long enough...
Russian market, where you can find almost anything if you can stand to look long enough…
Russian market food section has many small vendors like this lady.
Russian market food section has many small vendors like this lady.

We had lunch at Jars of Clay restaurant (very good) and then went by tuk tuk to Prek Eng to see the children. We spent a couple hours at each of the two houses just to catch up on their news. They are so hospitable and welcoming. Unlike children in the U.S. who say hi and then usually disappear, these kids love to sit and talk or just listen. There is always someone sitting on my lap or holding my hand or massaging my neck. They smile and laugh easily and try to communicate in English much more than they did in the past. We were served dragon fruit, leechee, mangosteen, and fried banana chips along with cold water and coffee. Mike played soccer with some of the boys – they have a special ball that is light and small when they are playing in close quarters, but were kicking a regular soccer ball out in the open, with their bare feet! They are tough!

The tuk tuk ride takes nearly an hour each way, through terrible road construction. It is a rough ride with lots of dust and potential traffic danger. Back at Green Pastures Inn Bora was waiting for us. She is the student midwife who works on the medical outreach with us. She and Sophat, one of the Asia Hope students who has graduated and is in university, came to dinner with us at Brooklyn Pizza. This is another good place to eat within walking distance, started by a man from, you guessed it, Brooklyn.

Home again to meet newly arrived members of the team, the Hamilton’s and Lydia. I have been talking with Lydia for half an hour and find her very interesting. She is just out of high school, the youngest of five children of long term missionaries. They live in the U.S. now but do a lot of traveling. This is Lydia’s first time in Cambodia and she had a lot of questions. Time to get some sleep now and I am so ready for that

Tuesday Travels? Wednesday Travels? I’m confused…

As we three travelers finished our journey to Cambodia, it was hard to keep track of what day it was.  It was actually early on Thursday that I finished this, or so I’m told. You will probably also be confused by the time you finish reading.    

Our flight to Phnom Penh is only six hours long and I am on it now, as I write. FT is 9 am Wednesday but over here when we land it will be exactly 12 hours later. I can tell my body thinks I should be awake, although I am confused enough that I will be able to go to sleep when we get to the guest house. It is always good to have that rest at the end of a long time of being in a non-restful position.

I have been studying the pictures of the children in PE 4 and PE 5, hoping to learn the boys names and review the girls. Even though I have seen them for three visits now it is still hard to remember the names that are very similar, especially when I have not done anything specific with them. I would like to call them all by name but it is unlikely…

We are in a fairly large plane and it is full. We have been given the only meal we will have on this leg of the journey. We were given papers to fill out to apply for our visas. The price of a visa has gone up from $25 to $37 and we will get ours at the airport when we land. So far the trip has been uneventful but I am almost afraid to say that.

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FT 12:45 pm Wednesday but in PP (Phnom Penh) it is 12:45 am on Thursday. At about 10:30 pm we had a rather rough landing and disembarked. Some of this detail is going to be boring to many but I’m hoping it will give daughter Julia an idea of where to go and what to do when she travels here alone on Saturday. I have never had to do it unaccompanied, thankfully. Everyone getting off the plane does pretty much the same thing so following the crowd is a good way to go. This airport is older, has a few holes in the walls, and a lot of strange additions to it – not at all like Korean airports. We are directed into a large room where lines are forming along the left wall. There is a counter with a lot of uniformed men, some women, behind it. They take our passports and $2 for a picture, then we stand in a group at the right of the long counter. Our passports are passed along the officials and end up at the last man who tries to pronounce our names in a way that we will recognize. Good luck there. He also holds it up so the picture can be seen. We pay $30 for the visa and get our passport handed to us again.

One more checkpoint as we move through the large room. There are several stations with an agent waiting to take another look at the passport, stamp it three or four times and give it back. We are now official tourists and the next stop is right in front of us – the baggage carousel. And by this time the bags are there and circling. Everything arrived undamaged and on time. There are carts to help us move it all. As we get near the door the waiting crowd spills through and starts the greeting and hugging. A lot of the kids have come, some of the dorm students, and a number of adults from Asia’s Hope. It is a royal welcome.

We are driven to the Green Pasture Inn, which is the guest house we have always stayed in, but now it has new management and some changes. Still it is familiar and feels like “home, sweet home” as Mike says. I have my double room, since Julie will be joining me in a few days. The “air con” gets turned on and, as usual, the password for the wifi doesn’t work. We’ll have to figure that one out in the morning. So for now, goodnight.

"home, sweet home" for the next two weeks
“home, sweet home” for the next two weeks